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Post by Dagger on Apr 16, 2010 16:24:50 GMT -5
Begust used a mechanical cutter do his cutting, so it is a little different. Usually you would glue them first and then cut them out.
If you don't have a mechanical cutter and are doing it by hand, this is how I do it:
1) Cut out the area around the model, leave lots of white space. If there are several models all lined up so they all share a common middle line you can keep all of them on the same section.
2) Score and fold the middle line. The is the line that separates the two halves of the model.
3) Use a glue stick and cover one of the inside halves of your folded section. I'm fond of the purple Elmer's glue sticks.
4) Firmly press the two halves together and set them aside to dry. It might help to put them under a heavy book or something.
5) Once they are dry, use an Xacto type blade to cut out the model. Notice that the black outline is thinner on one side than the other... make your cuts from the thinner side. On some larger models you may be able to use scissors for the straight cuts, but the smaller more detailed cuts are easier with an Xacto type blade.
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Post by Parduz on Apr 16, 2010 16:26:10 GMT -5
I think that begust own a CraftRobo (an automatic cutting machine), that's why he have it cutted before folding. Cut around the whole figure "stripe", score the folding lines, fold the "base line", and glue, cut out each figure and then fold the legs. About the razor: it works. two years ago, a friend give to me surgery blades (the kind they use only one time): i will never go back to any kind of cutter. If you can find a seller of that things, that surgery knifes are usually cheaper than the blades for the cutters, they stay sharp for the same time, and they cut better. I use the cutters only for strong cardboards (the surgery knifes are really thin, and so somewhat weak against hard material). edit: sorry for the doubled infos: I wrote in the same moment of Dagger. edit 2: found an image of what i use (very similar): www.bioscientifica.it/image/foto/modelli737.jpgthe kind i use have the blade #11, and it is not detachable: you have to throw away the whole thing when it become dull. I buy 10 of them for 6€
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Post by WaffleM on Apr 16, 2010 17:29:35 GMT -5
I cut out and build mine exactly like Dagger said, but with one change: When I'm gluing the two halves together with my glue stick (I also use the purple kind, but the regular works fine too) I apply the glue to both halves, not just one. Glue sticks are a fairly dry glue and by pressing two glued surfaces together you get a better bond. It works like a double dry mount if you've ever mounted any photographs or artwork. My art teacher from high school explained it like this: Regular masking tape is dry, but it sticks pretty well. Now if you stick the "sticky" sides of two pieces of tape together, you'll never get those two pieces apart.
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Post by Tomahawk on Apr 16, 2010 20:26:06 GMT -5
Hey! I have a couple of those! I'll try them. Thanks.
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Post by lordmanimal on Jun 25, 2010 18:36:31 GMT -5
For the record guys, the best stuff out there is Cougar Opaque; an 80lb Coverstock. It's actually much stronger than 110lb card or index stock. I can't impart the proper feel to you, but it's literally as strong as 2 sheets of 110lb cardstock. Give it a shot; you'll never go back! I will say however, that for figures, I think the georgia pacific stuff does fine, especially with a laser printer. The laser printers put a hard coated image on top of the paper, not into it, that toughens them up a good bit by default.
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