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Post by BradleyG on Mar 21, 2010 12:12:21 GMT -5
Deep underground the ancient factories of Ceti Grove manufacture wave after wave of standard pattern mechs.   As rock melts to metal, the weapons factories begin to awake. Brad |
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Post by tugunmojo on Mar 21, 2010 12:30:03 GMT -5
Nice
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Post by Dagger on Mar 21, 2010 13:51:21 GMT -5
Argh! This proxy at work is really getting annoying... I can't see the pics yet. I'll be here for a few more hours too... it's torture I tell you...
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Post by Dagger on Mar 21, 2010 16:45:41 GMT -5
Finally free from the proxy...(whew)
These turned out pretty good... I'm impressed. When you folded them, did they line up well?
You can put together a lot of models very fast this way... I just need to find a good Silhouette SD sale now...
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Post by Tomahawk on Apr 12, 2010 21:34:02 GMT -5
What weight paper do you recommend using. This is my first foray into the world of paper modeling, i.e. "Print and Play" Please be gentle.  Thanks, Tomahawk |
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Post by tugunmojo on Apr 12, 2010 23:00:55 GMT -5
I use 110# Card Stock that I buy from Wal-Mart. I've been using it for a few years (at least 5) now and my early work is still in good condition--not a good as what I can do now, but still in good condition. I'm also a fan of Elmer's Glue sticks, the purple ones that dry clear.
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Post by Tomahawk on Apr 13, 2010 6:41:54 GMT -5
I use 110# Card Stock that I buy from Wal-Mart. I've been using it for a few years (at least 5) now and my early work is still in good condition--not a good as what I can do now, but still in good condition. I'm also a fan of Elmer's Glue sticks, the purple ones that dry clear. Will 110# paper go through an inkjet printer? |
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Post by WaffleM on Apr 13, 2010 7:39:42 GMT -5
With my printer I have to feed the 110# card stock through the back, one sheet at a time. Most printers can handle it in the normal feed tray, but mine is a little wimpy as the paper can't make the 180 degree turn all the time. Having said that, I've almost exclusively switched to matte photo paper for miniatures (OfficeMax brand as it's double sided, but Staples brand is good too) and I keep the 110# for support backing on things like bases and hills. I also really like glue sticks, as they seem to keep down any warping that liquid glues can cause. After gluing to both sides, I like to use a brayer (rubber roller from ink printing) to apply even pressure and get good creases on the fold. Using too much pressure will cause curling and misalignment, but using just a bit of pressure will help press both sides together.  Brayers are available at most craft stores, but I've also used a rolling pin and a glass bottle when I didn't have one. The rubber coating really makes the brayer best though. They're usually about $10. Handy to have, but certainly not required. |
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Post by Tomahawk on Apr 13, 2010 8:15:50 GMT -5
What do you use to score for folding?
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Post by WaffleM on Apr 13, 2010 9:36:40 GMT -5
I just use my same hobby knife with MUCH less pressure. It takes some experimenting to get the right feel, but basically the score line just creates a break in the paper to guide the fold.
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Post by Dagger on Apr 13, 2010 13:54:38 GMT -5
Scoring - I've also read about people using a ball-point pen... one that is out of ink and no longer writes. Instead of cutting the paper, the roller ball compresses the paper which guides the fold. I haven't tried it myself, I'm still looking for a pen that is out of ink...(grin)
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Post by WaffleM on Apr 13, 2010 20:41:51 GMT -5
Ballpoint pens are my secret weapon for valley folds. I've tested them with the buildings and they work great to emboss the lines. I actually use black pens to color the fold line at the same time. I still use a blade for mountain folds though.
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Post by Parduz on Apr 14, 2010 5:10:52 GMT -5
Hi to all. I just bought the game and so i joined to the forum.
To score i use only ballpoint pens. But i score in the back side (the non printed side). I lay a sheet on a window, and the sunlight make it possible to see the score lines on thru the paper.
I use writing pens: the ink helps to "melt" a bit the paper, so you have not only the carving, but also a slightly soft paper along the fold: it helps to do whatever fold you need (mountain / valley).
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Post by tugunmojo on Apr 14, 2010 18:19:57 GMT -5
That's a good idea, I'll have to try it out sometime  |
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Post by Tomahawk on Apr 16, 2010 15:56:41 GMT -5
Ok, so pretend I know nothing about building paper minis (which isn't too far from the truth).
Should I fold first, then cut out the minis (as in the Assembly Directions), or cut out the minis first, then fold (as it looks like begust did)?
What should I use to cut out the minis? I have a hobby razor (Xacto-clone) that I got in a kit and a "self-healing mat," or should I just use a good pair of scissors?
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